Instead of your typical review of the JF 5 digit subs, that lots of people have posted up, I am going to be diving into what I think needs to be done to get these up to “super rep” status that will give you a solid watch with some gen parts that will leave you feeling like you have that true “Rolex” experience sitting on your wrist.
I have both the JF 16610LV and the JF 16610LN, and will be discussing both throughout this.
Case: For the JF 16610LV we all know about the “wokky rehaut”. In my mind, this is one of the 1st things to go. A quick sanding starting with 200 grit and working up to 3k grit sandpaper then buffing it out with a cape cod cloth does wonders. Finish it with a scotch brite pad to give it the brushed look, and it makes a world of difference.
For the JF 16610LN, the rehaut is shaped much better. You can sand off the engraving if you want, but it is not needed in my opinion.
Cost: $20 for supplies and ~1hr of time
Before pics. Also, relates to the next point. Bezel was removed while sitting in my office with no tools.
In progress
Final product. Compared to TC V6
Bracelet: Both bracelets are a little rattly to me, so a quick oil bath is all I did to them.
Cost: $5 for supplies and 5 minutes of prep. Let sit for 24 hoursish
Close up of the Sels of Both LV and LN
Bezel: Here is where the LN version shines. The LV has a bezel that can be easily popped off with slight pressure. It needs to be replaced with either the updated bezel from JF, or a TC. PA1 and PA2 both fit perfectly, as does gen and startime. Take your pic based on what you want to spend.
For the LN, Bezel assembly is good to go as is.
Cost: $40-XXX depending on which bezel you go for
PA1 Bezel w/ gen insert installed on JF LV Franken w/ gen dial
Insert: Inserts and Pearls are one of those things that I feel you can easily tell while its on your wrist. For me, a gen insert is one of the must have mods on any 5 digit; JF, TC, etc. LN inserts can be found everywhere, LV inserts will take some hunting.
Cost: $100-200 for LN depending on condition. $400-700 for LV depending on condition
Stock insert on LN
Gen insert on LN. Wish I had a gen LV insert to show as well.
Xtal: On both versions, the Xtal is another thing that needs to be replaced. Magnification is a touch too high, and there is too much glare off the JF xtal cyclops. Gen xtal is the best, but the TC V7 xtal is a cheap alternative. The difference between the TC v7 and the Gen is minor in my eyes. Gen is b25-295-c2-c4. Depending on what year youre going for, No AR and No LEC or No AR w/ LEC is correct. Although the AR w/ LEC xtals look great as well, they are not the correct one and they cost a significant amount more.
Cost: $40-60 for TC V7. $130-200 for Gen depending on condition. Gen is b25-295-c2-c4
Gen on Left (LV), JF on Right (LN). Hard to really capture in pictures.
Dial: The dials are very well done on these. Unless you are going for a superfranken, a gen dial is not needed in my opinion. Some stock ones I have seen with a dirty dial, so clean that up and youre good to go.
Cost: None
Gen Tritium Dial
JF LN Dial
Hands: Similar to the Dial, I don’t feel these add a significant amount of accuracy to justify the high costs. Again, if dirty, clean up and enjoy them.
Movement: The SH3135 Movement is a great movement. There are a little bit of QC issues that I have noticed where gen parts don’t always fit exactly correct, but they are close enough that you can make them work. Of the 3 sh3135s that I have, all 3 have fit gen parts a little different.
Some people prefer a gen autowind to get a smoother winding feel. If this is a big deal to you, do it, but I don’t feel it is a great way to spend $300-400.
What is needed is a gen date disc. The LV Date is way too bold, the LN Date is a little less bold, but the Gen just sets it apart.
Cost: $100-200 for Date Disc depending on condition. $300-400+ on autowind depending on condition.
LV Date
LN Date
Gen Date
All said and done and you do the things I’ve recommended, you are looking at a $750-1k total depending on how hard you search for deals. This gives you a solid Franken 5 Digit that even some of the biggest Rolex Fans wouldn’t be able to tell a difference with.
If you have any questions or suggestions to add to the list, let me know. I am always on the look out for new mods, new ways to do things, and new franken parts.
And just for fun, the JF LV with gen xtal and date disc and a cheap blue insert. Love the looks, so a gen shark insert has been ordered.
I have both the JF 16610LV and the JF 16610LN, and will be discussing both throughout this.
Case: For the JF 16610LV we all know about the “wokky rehaut”. In my mind, this is one of the 1st things to go. A quick sanding starting with 200 grit and working up to 3k grit sandpaper then buffing it out with a cape cod cloth does wonders. Finish it with a scotch brite pad to give it the brushed look, and it makes a world of difference.
For the JF 16610LN, the rehaut is shaped much better. You can sand off the engraving if you want, but it is not needed in my opinion.
Cost: $20 for supplies and ~1hr of time
Before pics. Also, relates to the next point. Bezel was removed while sitting in my office with no tools.
In progress
Final product. Compared to TC V6
Bracelet: Both bracelets are a little rattly to me, so a quick oil bath is all I did to them.
Cost: $5 for supplies and 5 minutes of prep. Let sit for 24 hoursish
Close up of the Sels of Both LV and LN
Bezel: Here is where the LN version shines. The LV has a bezel that can be easily popped off with slight pressure. It needs to be replaced with either the updated bezel from JF, or a TC. PA1 and PA2 both fit perfectly, as does gen and startime. Take your pic based on what you want to spend.
For the LN, Bezel assembly is good to go as is.
Cost: $40-XXX depending on which bezel you go for
PA1 Bezel w/ gen insert installed on JF LV Franken w/ gen dial
Insert: Inserts and Pearls are one of those things that I feel you can easily tell while its on your wrist. For me, a gen insert is one of the must have mods on any 5 digit; JF, TC, etc. LN inserts can be found everywhere, LV inserts will take some hunting.
Cost: $100-200 for LN depending on condition. $400-700 for LV depending on condition
Stock insert on LN
Gen insert on LN. Wish I had a gen LV insert to show as well.
Xtal: On both versions, the Xtal is another thing that needs to be replaced. Magnification is a touch too high, and there is too much glare off the JF xtal cyclops. Gen xtal is the best, but the TC V7 xtal is a cheap alternative. The difference between the TC v7 and the Gen is minor in my eyes. Gen is b25-295-c2-c4. Depending on what year youre going for, No AR and No LEC or No AR w/ LEC is correct. Although the AR w/ LEC xtals look great as well, they are not the correct one and they cost a significant amount more.
Cost: $40-60 for TC V7. $130-200 for Gen depending on condition. Gen is b25-295-c2-c4
Gen on Left (LV), JF on Right (LN). Hard to really capture in pictures.
Dial: The dials are very well done on these. Unless you are going for a superfranken, a gen dial is not needed in my opinion. Some stock ones I have seen with a dirty dial, so clean that up and youre good to go.
Cost: None
Gen Tritium Dial
JF LN Dial
Hands: Similar to the Dial, I don’t feel these add a significant amount of accuracy to justify the high costs. Again, if dirty, clean up and enjoy them.
Movement: The SH3135 Movement is a great movement. There are a little bit of QC issues that I have noticed where gen parts don’t always fit exactly correct, but they are close enough that you can make them work. Of the 3 sh3135s that I have, all 3 have fit gen parts a little different.
Some people prefer a gen autowind to get a smoother winding feel. If this is a big deal to you, do it, but I don’t feel it is a great way to spend $300-400.
What is needed is a gen date disc. The LV Date is way too bold, the LN Date is a little less bold, but the Gen just sets it apart.
Cost: $100-200 for Date Disc depending on condition. $300-400+ on autowind depending on condition.
LV Date
LN Date
Gen Date
All said and done and you do the things I’ve recommended, you are looking at a $750-1k total depending on how hard you search for deals. This gives you a solid Franken 5 Digit that even some of the biggest Rolex Fans wouldn’t be able to tell a difference with.
If you have any questions or suggestions to add to the list, let me know. I am always on the look out for new mods, new ways to do things, and new franken parts.
And just for fun, the JF LV with gen xtal and date disc and a cheap blue insert. Love the looks, so a gen shark insert has been ordered.
